Custom wooden backdoor covers, also known as Dutch doors, not only add insulation and style: they also cut down on road noise and make the van feel more like a real cabin on wheels. I made two different styles using two different methods, so whether you’re working with scrap pine or tongue and groove boards, this guide should give you something to work with.
Step 1: Gut the Stock Panels
First things first, rip off the stock plastic panels from the interior of the Astro van’s barn doors. I didn’t film that part, but it’s straightforward. Once they’re off, you’ll find a bunch of plastic tabs left behind. I used a pair of spring-loaded scissors to snip them out and clear the space for the new panels.
While you’re in there: reroute any wiring, like the speaker wire, by tucking it into the door or back into the van body. This gets everything out of the way and keeps things clean for the new panels.
Step 2: Add Insulation (Foam Board, Reflectix, Tyvek Tape)
Insulation matters, especially in a metal box like this. I used quarter-inch foam board, cut to size and secured directly onto the inner door panels using Tyvek tape. This helps retain heat and dampens road noise significantly. Once the foam board is taped in, I added a cut-to-fit layer of Reflectix in the center indentation of each door for some radiant barrier effect. Same method here: hold it in place with Tyvek tape and work out as many bubbles as possible for a flush fit.
Heads up, Tyvek tape is very sticky. It will gunk up your scissors quickly, so use a pair you don’t mind trashing or plan to clean.
Step 3: Build the Panels (Two Methods)
I built two different panel styles, one for each door.
Passenger Side: Pine Strips
- Cut four-inch pine strips to length
- Glued the edges and pressed them together using a cooler, a toolbox, and some weight
- After the glue dried, I added trim and battens for structure
- Test fit the panel to make sure everything aligned
Driver Side: Tongue and Groove
- Same process, but with tongue and groove blued pine boards
- Glued and clamped, then trimmed out
- Used a jigsaw to remove the tongue on the exposed edge
- Sanded all corners and edges for a clean, smooth finish
Could I have used a router? Absolutely. Did I have one? No. This was a simple, get-it-done approach that worked just fine. Now that I have a router: I would use one 100% of the time for a job like this.
Step 4: Attach Battens for Strength and Shape
Each panel got two horizontal battens for extra strength and shape retention. I marked out exact placement, drilled pilot holes, and gently torqued in screws using a DeWalt impact driver set on low. Always start with light torque just to hold things in place, then come back through and snug them up once the whole structure is secure.
Because tongue and groove boards have natural bend and warp, the battens help keep the final panel flat and true against the door surface.
Step 5: Mounting to the Van Doors
Here’s where it all comes together.
- I clamped each finished panel onto the van door
- Drilled pilot holes directly through the panel and into the metal of the barn doors
- Used self-tapping screws to secure the wood to the metal. These do not need to be torqued all the way in at first
- Once the corners were secure, I clamped the entire panel flush to the curvature of the door
- Added pilot holes and screws at key points along the battens to lock in that curve
Once I finished torquing in the top and bottom screws, the panels hugged the door shape perfectly. It looked clean, custom, and gave the back of the van a much more finished look.
Final Result: Cabin Vibes, Van-Simple
The end result is a pair of Dutch doors that look like they came out of a rustic off-grid cabin. They are solid, functional, and help regulate temperature and noise inside the van. Plus, they are totally custom. No two builds will look the same depending on what wood you use.
This is a great intermediate-level DIY project for anyone doing a van conversion who wants their space to feel a bit more intentional. Whether you are winter camping, full-timing, or just like the aesthetics, this upgrade has a huge payoff for relatively little effort.
Tools and Materials Used
| Item | Purpose |
|---|---|
| Pine strips or tongue and groove | Main panel construction |
| Quarter-inch foam board | Insulation inside the doors |
| Reflectix | Radiant heat barrier |
| Tyvek tape | Securing insulation and reflectix |
| Screws and pilot drill | Mounting panels and battens |
| Jigsaw and sander | Edge trimming and smoothing |
| Impact driver | Fast, low-torque screwing |
Would I Do Anything Differently?
Honestly, if I had a router, I would have used it to trim the edges more cleanly. But even without one, this turned out great. The only major takeaway is to always clamp the panels to the door before final mounting. Wood will bow and flex if you let it.
Hope this helps, and happy building!
